Friday 27 August 2010

What is Single Origin

What is Single Origin
Author: Dal Anderson
Posted: August 18, 2010
Article rating: 9.2
feedback: (6) comments | read | write
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A few days ago some articles appeared on CoffeeGeek talking about the state of espresso in 2010. The bulk of the discussion was on Single Origin (SO) coffee as espresso and the writer, Mark Prince had some very tight definitions on what he considered Single Origin coffee to be.

"What is Single Origin? It is -- simply put -- one type of bean from one area of one farm (sometimes called a microlot) roasted one way."

Further, he wrote: "If the coffee is from a collection of farms, it is not Single Origin. If the coffee is from the same farm but roasted several ways and post blended, it is not Single Origin. If the coffee is from a country with no other information, it is not a Single Origin."

I wrote Mark to say I felt that definition was too narrow and that every roaster I know doing Single Origin coffees and espresso roasts have a much broader definition of what Single Origin is. Even my boss' definition is broader than my own. We got into a debate about it and he invited me to dive into the subject more and write about various definitions of Single Origin. In my research I found that there were a lot of definitions and interpretations and it lead me to believe that Single Origin is a confusing term to many. Especially with regards to espresso.

Single Origin History

A person could argue that Single Origin coffee has always existed or at least existed in the minds of coffee buyers going back centuries. Perhaps many in the past felt that Single Origin meant the country of origin and instead of selling coffee as "coffee" a company would sell coffee as "Java" or "Yemen" and that was Single Origin to them and the coffee buying public at large. The most famous historical blend is Mohka Java (Moka Java, Mokka Java etc) which to many coffee buyers in 1880 was the blending of two famous Single Origin beans to create an exotic blend. Mohka was a port in Yemen and not a region. Coffee sold for export would make it to this port, and coffee bought there was often labled Mohka which for many late 19th century coffee consumers was a Single Origin coffee.

Tracing the Single Origin concept a bit closer to our time period, perhaps it really started in 1999 when the Cup of Excellence was started and the focus on individual farms was for the first time really highlighted and explained on a broad, multi-company scale. George Howell was one of the founders of the Cup of Excellence and he has said many times over the goal was to highlight individual farms doing excellent things with growing coffee.

At the time of the founding of the Cup of Excellence, Single Origin was not really a phrase used (at least I can't find a reference to it) but it nonetheless existed as a concept. At that time, Single Origin could be held to mean one coffee farmer's product. No thought about how it was processed (wet, dry, etc) or roasted was brought into the matter. So here is how Single Origin could be defined in 1999:

Single Origin - 1999: One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small their farm is, no matter how the coffee was processed, no matter how the coffee is roasted.

2004

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Ecco Blends
Ecco Caffe was offering up various espresso "blends" that were Single Origin in nature, but roasted different ways and post Blended. From time to time their Northern Italian Roast and Daterra Blend were Single Origins

In 2003, George Howell started the George Howell Coffee Company, and in 2004, Terroir Coffee. Both companies had a specific goal of identifying true Single Origin coffees and presenting them in a direct and transparent way to their customers. Howell started using the phrase "Single Origin" around this time. (ed.note - not confirmed and it is possible Single Origin as a phrase existed earlier than this) Around the same time other roasters started putting more farm information into their literature. Ecco Caffe in California, led by Andrew Barnett was one of those companies but they also did something else that Terroir Coffee did early on: they started taking the same coffee from the same farm and roasting it different ways to create a blend. They called these coffees blends (for espresso) while still identifying the individual farms. Perhaps the term Single Origin blend was used. Why different roast profiles? I imagine it was because the Single Origin coffees tasted different depending on the roast profile and the roaster wanted to introduce different flavors when constructing something for espresso.

So, by 2004, the definition of Single Origin might be

Single Origin - 2004 (new) One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small their farm is, no matter how the coffee was processed,but roasted one specific way.

And the act of roasting with different profiles the same coffee were called a blend or an espresso roast and defined as

Single Origin Blend - 2004 (new): One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small their farm is, no matter how the coffee was processed, and roasted with different profiles and post blended.

2005

Doug Zell wrote an interesting and controversial blog post earlier this year where he took credit for many things in coffee, not the least of which is the concept of the micro lot. I won't argue whether or not Intelligentsia invented the phrase or concept for coffee. I will quote Zell:

"We introduced the term and the concept of the Micro-lot to the public for the first time in November of 2005 with our Colombia Cauca Almaguer Micro Lot produced by Alciabiades Garcia. This revolutionized the industry on many fronts from the specificity of lot separation, to the prices that a grower would be paid for a coffee to what the consumer would be willing to pay for coffee. Although Cup of Excellence offered this idea in the form of an auction, we pioneered it as an ongoing part of a successful Direct Trade buying model. Many roasters, exporters, and importers worldwide now offer Micro-lots on a regular basis."

The microlot concept brought the idea that there was a specific portion of a farm producing better coffee than other parts and to single that out would bring the best of the best. I note there still wasn't much talk about processing though I imagine the way the coffee was processed was directly written on the roasted bags for consumers to read.

This, in my mind, created a new subcategory of Single Origin and this is where I start to differ from Prince's definition quoted at the top of this article.

Single Origin Coffee - 2005: One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small the farm is, no matter how it was processed, roasted with one roast profile.

Single Origin Blend - 2005: One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small their farm is, no matter how the coffee was processed, and roasted with different profiles and post blended.

Single Origin Coffee - The Microlot - 2005 (new): One coffee farm's product from one specific part of the farm, cupped and graded to find the best parts of the farm for producing coffee. No specifics on processing; roasted with one roast profile.

2007

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Single Lots / Microlots
Counter Culture Coffee offered up their own variant of Single Origins / Microlots / Single Lots, including this Kenya Gaturiri and Colombia La Golondrina Odair Achipiz
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Explained...
Peter Guiliano's words on the back of the Kenya Single Lot bag offer a definition of how this coffee was selected.

I first read the name Aida Batlle in a blog post that James Hoffmann made in 2007. I read up about her and the work she was doing as a coffee farmer and her partnership with Counter Culture Coffee and was especially interested in how Batlle was experimenting with different processing methods. As far as I know, she was the first farmer to take a premier Single Origin coffee and process it different ways (pulp natural, natural, washed, semi washed etc). Perhaps she wasn't the first or the pioneer in this regard but she was the first I read about doing it so I list her here.

Batlle was also experimenting with the naming of coffees with trademarked, invented names, something Intelligentsia and other roasters had been doing for a while (one example, Los Inmortales from El Salvador, is sometimes a blend from different farms roasted for drip coffee). Intelligentsia's coffee blends were just that: blends and not Single Origin. But I was confused thinking they were Single Origin for some time. So Batlle's route into doing a similar thing (naming a coffee with a trademarked, invented name) also confused me. Was she doing something similar to Intelligenstia with their fancy trademarked names for coffee? As far as I can tell, she was not. She was crafting trademarked names to use for coffees that were still Single Origin, but the Single Origin would change from time to time and perhaps there may be several coffees bagged individually and available under the same trademarked name but from different farms. She would find and identify first rate Single Origins in her farm, with partners and at the mill, process them a certain way and sell them under trademarked names. Los Luchadores (PDF link) is one such coffee trademark. The coffee farm and source would still be identified, but it was about finding specific types of beans and specific types of processes and selling them a specific way with an innovative marketing campaign.

Batlle brought two new things to the idea of Single Origin, so some of the definitions of Single Origin changes again.

Single Origin Coffee - 2007 (new): One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small the farm is, processed any one way, roasted with one roast profile.

Single Origin Blend - 2007 (new): One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small their farm is, processed one way or several ways, and roasted with different profiles and post blended.

Single Origin Coffee - Trademarked Style - 2007 (new): One coffee farm's product picked to fit into a specific style or profile coffee (like a pacamara style, or a heavy fruit style). processed one way, roasted with one roast profile.

Single Origin Coffee - The Microlot - 2007: One coffee farm's product from one specific part of the farm, cupped and graded to find the best parts of the farm for producing coffee. No specifics on processing; roasted with one roast profile.

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This is probably where the confusion for many people on Single Origin coffee really started. It certainly did for me. I was an interested coffee consumer and an avid reader of CoffeeGeek.com at that time along with Home-Barista and Coffeed (my career in coffee started only 2 years ago). This is also the time that using Single Origin coffees (not blends) for espresso really started to take off, confusing things even more. I'll add one more definition to the mix:

Single Origin Coffee - For Espresso - 2007 (new): One coffee farm's product, no matter how large or small the farm is, processed one way, roasted with a specific espresso brewing roast profile.
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Single Origin?
I believed Beloya was a single origin coffee, but I wonder if it really is. There's no farm information.
Sometimes Single Origin
At times, the Black Cat offerings from Intelligentsia may be single origin, may not be. Back in Nov 2008, the Organic is a blend of non descript Latin America coffees; this version of the Classic is from one two farms that are named. This summer, BC Organic was one coffee from one farm; Classic has been single coffees at times as well.
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Trademarked Single Origin?
Los Inmortales is one of Intelligentsia's longest running names (besides Black Cat), and has frequently been a blend of various farms from El Salvador; this is one example from 2008 where two farms were featured.
Reserves, Microlots, Single Orgins
In this example there are many bags from Counter Culture Coffee and Aida Batlle's farm. Some are microlots, some feature different processing methods, and some are coffees Batlle has picked to be her Aida's Selections from various farms.

(Re)Defining Single Origin

All of these definitions can be intermixed. For instance, you could have a Single Origin Coffee for Espresso from a Microlot. You could have a Single Origin Blend for drip coffee with the same coffee processed 3 different ways, then post-roast blended. You could have a Single Origin coffee processed 3 different ways, but pre blended before roasting.

I have been a roaster's apprentice for almost two years now and I even find these things confusing. I can't imagine how a coffee consumer would feel. I do like Prince's attempt to define what Single Origin is in simple and easy to understand terms but I feel it is too limiting. I'd like to present a more broad definition that the coffee buying public can still grasp.

Single Origin Coffee - 2010: a selection of coffee beans from a single coffee farm, processed one way, and roasted with one roast profile.

The idea behind this definition is that you highlight the coffee as much as possible, and present a coffee with a certain amount of clarity in its taste. It could be a micolot, it could be a specific processing method, or it could be a general selection of beans from an entire 20 acre farm, but it is still, by (my) definition a Single Origin.

If the coffee is from a coop of several tightly business-connected farms, should it be called a Single Origin? I don't think so. If the coffee is roasted with different roast profiles and post blended, does that still follow the spirit of the concept of Single Origin? Many people think so (my boss does!), but since roast profiles can change the taste of almost any coffee I feel this takes away from the spirit and intent of Single Origin as a title and definition. If the goal of promoting Single Origin is to get consumers thinking about terroir, farmers, specific tastes, and growing practices, once you muddy up the taste with different roasting profiles, perhaps you lose the meaning.

For that, we could have:

Single Origin Roast Blended - 2010: a selection of coffee beans from a single coffee farm, processed one or multiple ways, roasted with multiple roast profiles.

This definition helps keep the spirit of promoting one farm's coffee but it also explores the taste potential of the coffee depending on how the green coffee was processed and how it was roasted. It could also help the public understand what we in the industry know very well: different processing affects the taste of coffee, and different roast profiles do the same.

Lastly, we could have

Single Origin, Roasted for Espresso - 2010 A selection of coffee beans from a single coffee farm, processed one or multiple ways, roasted with one or more roast profiles to be brewed as espresso.

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A lot of our customers take our Single Origin coffees roasted for drip or French press and put them into their espresso machines. Some like the results, some do not. But we also roast some of these Single Origin coffees from time to time with a very precise profile for espresso brewing. In those cases, our customers find that coffee to be much more appropriate for the brewing method. This is something we debate often at the roastery. We wished more companies educated their customers on how roast profiles can be tailored for a specific brewing method and what works for one style of brewing may be detrimental for other methods.

Since Single Origin espresso is so popular right now, a little education with the buying public could go a long way. But perhaps that is another article.

Dal Anderson is a home barista enthusiast turned professional roaster. He works for a PNW-based roastery as a roaster's apprentice, and one day hopes to start his own cafe / roastery, focusing on Single Origin, Direct Trade and fine tuned espresso blends. Anderson still pulls shots every day on his 2001 non PID-ed Rancilio Silvia.

Friday 30 July 2010

Coining a Greener Tea Bag

They may look like chocolate cookies, but they're actually tea coins.

They were invented by teamakers in a village in Assam in northeast India, and they're an eco-friendly alternative to the traditional teabag.

Assam is the world's largest tea-growing region and Rajesh Singpho is one of many teamakers.

And he is now making a name for himself by manufacturing the coins.

[Rajesh Singpho, Tea Coin Manufacturer]:
"We have been traditionally making it for many years now. In 2006 we started marketing this traditional tea and received a lot of positive response."

The coins are hand-pressed and are a mix of Oolong and green tea.

They've been popular in local Indian communities for some time, but now they're starting to take off internationally as well.

[Rjesh Singpho, Tea Coin Manufacturer]:
"We have already started marketing this tea here. And now even the U.S. is demanding this tea. Apart from that, we have begun marketing the tea in Hong Kong and China."

The tea-coin makers only use natural fertilizers and organic pest sprays.

People living in this region of Assam believe that drinking the tea helps to control diabetes, cancer and heart disease.

So if conventional medicine is not your proverbial cup of tea, at just over four dollars a kilogram, tea coins may just be the perfect brew.

Saturday 24 July 2010

Fair Trade in Bloivia

When I traveled in South America I was told to be scared if we didn't see police seems that the farmers


A clash between Bolivian food merchants and police turns into a massive food fight as authorities try to remove the vendors from the streets. City officials want the unauthorized sellers removed but vendors argue the government provides no other space.

Friday 23 July 2010

Whats in the bag?....I know!


Tea bags are the grocery equivalent of a structured financial product

So what exactly is in that teabag you used this morning for a nice "cuppa" tea?

Well cut it open and you will find that it probably resembles mildly tea flavoured sawdust.

I only recently discovered this when buying a "premium" supermarket brand of loose tea. I thought they had real cheek calling it premium "leaf" tea rather than "value sawdust with a mild hint of tea".

But then I checked out the supermarket's tea bags under the same "premium" branding. Well hardly surprising it is the same "sawdust tea". I shudder to think what their "value" range is like. But hats off to them as when I complained about the quality of their "premium" tea they promptly refunded me the cost of the "tea" and put the range on special offer within a week. So they know how to react.

Tea bags were invented on the grounds that customers would find it easier to prepare tea with the tea enclosed in the bags rather than have to deal with messy leaves.

Not only does this generate wasteful bags but it is uncertain how much real tea there is in the teabags. Open a tea bag and see for yourself.

A teabag is the grocery equivalent of a structured financial product.

Only when you cut one open you will find that it is filled with sawdust and not real leaf tea.


.......... Warren EDWARDES ............ http://wineforspicewarrenedwardes.blogspot.com/

Beefeater Lightens Up With A New Summer Gin Release

I Like Gin and Sencha does this mean I'll like Beefeater 24?



beefeater summer gin.jpg
J. Garbee
Summer Lolling Among The Wildflowers

Beefeater, the London-based gin distiller, seems to be back in the infusing game after decades of standing guard with its original gin. That the nearly 150-year-old distillery was purchased in 2005 by spirits and wine giant Pernod Ricard USA might have something to do with it.

The newest release is a limited-edition summer gin that's dubbed, logically enough, theSummer Edition. Like last year's Beefeater 24 release, the Summer Edition is lighter on the gin flavor (juniper berries) than the original -- a trend that other distillers of full-flavored spirits seem to be doing of late. Adding subtle herbal notes from ingredients not typically found in the classic formula is also de rigueur in today's mega-distiller circles.

With Beefeater 24, the elusive new ingredient is green tea (both Chinese and Japanese Sencha). The Summer Edition touts elderflowers, black currants and hibiscus flowers as its unique drink factor, with just "a little kick of juniper to remind you that it is gin." Whether that's a good thing depends on whether you like gin precisely for its pine-y flavor. The Summer Edition tastes, not surprisingly, light and floral with a trace of that "this is definitely gin" flavor.

Do note that olives aren't exactly a merry match with elderflowers and hibiscus (we tried it just for fun so you don't have to). And so we suggest avoiding classic martinis with the Summer Edition. You could come up with a wildly creative cocktail with a fancy name, or go the easy route. Make a gin and tonic, add a twist of lemon and call it the lemon edition.

Beefeater's Summer Edition is available this summer only for about $27 at well-stocked liquor stores or by special order from specialty retailers.

By Jenn Garbee

C1 Espresso Christchurch NZ

Loved this coffee shop when I was out in NZ.


DISHWASHER LOST & FOUND...

During our kitchen and cafe renovations, some nimble and bold guys stole C1's dishwasher. According to witnesses this was no mean feat. It took four guys to lift the large piece of machinery into the back of a Honda Civic. They took off across town with sparks flying as the back of the car groaned under it's weight. The Boys in Blue were right on the case and managed to catch them shortly after and returned our dishwasher in one piece. Literally. The stainless steel was crushed for scrap and swapped for a tinny.

An unfitting end to one of the hardest working and longest serving members of the C1 team.

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Thursday 22 July 2010

Indonesian Ulema allow civet coffee

OK so we had this coffee in the cafe a while ago and thought it was ok nothing that special in its taste that makes people pay so much for it.

Indonesian Ulema allow civet <b>coffee</b>: Indonesian Ulema allow civet coffee
by Mathias Hariyadi
After a long diatribe, the country's highest Islamic authority has banned the "Kopi Luwak" coffee from beans partially digested by civet cats. One of the most expensive drinks in the world.

Jakarta (AsiaNews / Agencies) - The Indonesian Ulema Council - the highest Muslim religious authority in the country - has decided to allow the consumption of the most expensive coffee in the world, "Kopi Luwak", despite being made from beans eaten, partly digested and then defecated by a small mammal, or the civet cat owl.

The discussion on the consumption of this drink has abounded in the Muslim world for years considered by the more hardlin wing "haram" forbidden in the religious sense and therefore unfit for consumption. But after the plenary meeting, the Council decided not to publish a fatwa banning the "civet coffee” to Muslims.

"After a long discussion, we decided that drinking Luwak coffee is not a sin," said Ma'rouf Amien, chairman of the highest religious authority in the country. "It is not prohibited as long as the coffee beans are passed under water to remove traces of excrement" he said.

The "Luwak" is produced by the civet cats, small mammals similar to weasels, which eat the coffee beans. But they do not fully digest them and they are expelled, after being fermented, naturally. Once dried and roasted, they are used to prepare a traditional drink of coffee less bitter in taste with caramel and chocolate.

Worldwide, every year, just 200 pounds of Luwak coffee are produced, the price varies between 400 and 500 Euros per kilo. The civet, among others, was in the headlines a few years ago: a very common animal in Asia, it was one of the major carriers of the terrible SARS.

From Lifehacker :Brew the Best Possible Coffee Without Breaking the Bank

From Lifehacker :Brew the Best Possible Coffee Without Breaking the Bank: "

Source Lifehacker


Brew the Best Possible Coffee Without Breaking the Bank

Whether you're the kind of coffee drinker that slugs back the swill in the break-room coffee pot at work or savors exotic coffee on sleepy Sundays, there is always room for enhancing your java.
Photo by visualpanic.
Consider yourself forewarned however, once you begin brewing better coffee it becomes increasingly difficult to go back to enjoying crappy coffee. Raised in a family of non-coffee drinkers I simply accepted that the coffee I intermittently experienced in diners and donut shops across America was the entirety of the coffee experience—scalding hot, bitter in taste, and certainly not as pleasant a caffeine delivery system as Mountain Dew. All of that changed when I started drinking more coffee to survive life on the graveyard shift and decided that there had to be a way to make coffee taste good without adding so much sugar into it that I may as well have kept drinking soda.
You won't always be able to use all of the following tricks to brew a great cup of coffee—not all of us have access a local coffee roaster or the a well stocked local market—but applying even a few of them to your coffee routine will boost the quality of your coffee drinking experience.

Know Your Varieties

Nearly all the coffee in the world comes from two types of coffee plants: Arabica and Robusta. Arabica has roughly half the amount of caffeine and a more mellow taste. Robusta has more caffeine and higher acidic content which creates a significantly more bitter flavor. Many people experience mild stomach aches from the combination of higher caffeine and acidic content of Robusta beans, certainly many a potential future coffee-drinker has sworn off the stuff because of such an experience with cheap Robusta beans. It often isn't all that much more to buy Arabica over Robusta and with careful label reading you can often get Arabica coffee for the same price as Robusta based blends. Photo by SDCDeaCerte.

Buy Whole Beans

When you smell coffee—whether you're smelling whole beans or already ground coffee—you're essentially breathing in some of the flavor. The oils and chemical compounds that give coffee its distinct flavoring are in constant flight from the bean. The more you can do to preserve the integrity of the beans and the delightful flavor inside right up until the moment of brewing, the better the coffee will be. Keeping the beans intact for as long as possible helps immensely. If possible where you live, try to buy locally roasted beans to benefit from the freshness. Barring that, buying whole bean coffee is vastly superior to buying pre-ground coffee. Photo by FreeWine.

Grind Your Own

You've got whole bean coffee, now what? There are two principle types of coffee grinders on the market. A basic blade grinder costs less than $15 at any kitchen store or big box grocer and looks a lot like a tall and narrow food processor. There is a flat blade at the bottom of the chamber you put your coffee in that spins and grinds up the beans. The other kind of grinder is a burr grinder and prices for a quality model start at $200 and rise rapidly. Burr models use two interlocking metal burns to create extremely uniform coffee grounds—imagine if you will two cone shaped gears that fit together like nesting dolls. Coffee aficionados will balk at my suggestion that a blade grinder is adequate, but it's better to have irregularly but freshly ground coffee than it is to have no coffee at all because you blew $500 on a premium coffee grinder! Grind the coffee as closely to the time it will be used as possible, ideally right before you use it. Photo by Collin Anderson.

Storage

The refrigerator is the mortal enemy of your coffee. Taking coffee in and out of the fridge is a sure way to suck the flavor right out of it. Coffee that will be used frequently and immediately—whole bean or ground— is ideally stored in an air tight, opaque,and glass or otherwise inert container. Coffee that will not be consumed immediately but needs to be preserved for near-future use can be safely stored in the freezer assuming it is stored in a dry and air tight container. Storing an unsealed container of grounds or beans in the cold temperatures of either the fridge or freezer is a sure way to accelerate the its journey from delicious flavor to stale bitterness. Photo by Michelodeon.

Press It

Most people would assume if they had less than $50 to spend on coffee brewing equipment that there would be no way they could get a premium cup of coffee out of the supplies they could afford. Fortunately one of the best methods of brewing coffee is the cheapest. You can pick up a Bodum Chambord French Press, the original and classic design, for $25 or less just about everywhere. Using a French press is one of the simplest methods of brewing a fantastic cup of coffee. A French press is a glass cylinder that has a lid with a piston style rod attached to a circular screen. Grind your coffee, put a few heaping scoops in the bottom, pour nearly boiling water over the grounds, wait about four minutes, press the plunger down to push the grounds down and enjoy some delicious coffee. One of the primary benefits of making coffee in a French press over a standard drip pot is that more of the coffee oils end up in your cup instead of in the machine's filter. More oils means better taste! As a bonus, a carefully cleaned French press can also double as an excellent pot for loose leaf tea. If you already have a drip pot and want to keep on using it, use a tip we've previously highlighted as a way to get better coffee out of drip coffee makers: run a pot of water through it before putting the actual coffee through to pre-heat the unit and help get it closer to optimum brewing temperature.Photo byMaggiejumps.

Use Pure(r) Water

While it might not be practical to install a reverse osmosis filter under your sink, the more pure the water you use for your coffee the better it will taste. A gallon of locally distilled water costs less than a dollar in most places and many supermarkets have cheap refills available—my local market has a machine that will refill a gallon jug for 35 cents. Even if you—for environmental or financial reasons—don't want to spend money on filtered or bottled water for your coffee you can still tweak your water. Fill up a pitcher of water the night before and set it out on the counter. While it's not the same as being filtered through the stony depths of a mountain aquifer it will allow some chemicals in the water like chlorine to dissipate. Anything that makes your cup of joe taste less like the pool at the YMCA is welcome. Photo by gilles chiroleu.
The variety of coffees and methods of preparation ensure that the above list just barely scratches the surface of tips and tricks to be shared on the subject. If you have a great tip for making a better cup of coffee, share it in the comments below and help your fellow readers make 2009 the year their coffee stops being bitter enough to kill an old cowboy.
Send an email to Jason Fitzpatrick, the author of this post, at jason@lifehacker.com.
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